Friday, September 18, 2015

Shall We Eat Tigers?

SUCH a great idea! This is how it would work; we would breed tigers in captivity, thousands of them. Then we would go into the jungle with big drag nets and catch every animal we could find as feed for the tigers. Some of these animals, big and small, would be thrown into the tigers while still reasonably fresh. Others could be ground up and cooked with other ingredients to be made into tiger-feed pellets. Actually, we would be better off grinding them up in this way because the fresh animal feed could introduce bacteria that increased the mortality rate at our tiger farm.

Of course, we would quickly run out of animals in our local jungle and would have to buy quite a lot from professional hunters who dragged nets through other jungles and forests. Also, tigers being what they are, we would have to feed anything from 5 to 15+ kilograms of squirrels, monkeys, tapirs, orangutans, sun bears, flying foxes etc. for every one kilogram of tiger meat we produced, but that doesn’t really matter because tiger meat is worth so much more in the marketplace than those other animals, many of which are ‘trash’ animals anyway.

Pity about the jungle habitat that we would destroy as trees and other foliage is ripped from the ground by our nets. And of course there are the folk who have sustainably relied for millennia on the jungle and the animals we are now throwing into our pens teeming with tigers, but that’s progress isn’t it? Time they moved on and got a job somewhere else anyway I suppose.

Sounds like a smashing idea doesn’t it! We would make a killing, if you will excuse the puns. Well, for a while anyway. Hopefully, long enough to get rich and move on.

Imagine, if you will, the hue and cry that would be heard around the world were a company to declare triumphally that they had established a business that bred and reared tigers in captivity for food. Imagine further how the clamour would be exacerbated if the company went into the wild jungle as I suggest above capturing animals and feeding them to the tigers.

Would any sane person argue that such a business model is a solution to future food insecurity? And yet, this is more or less what we are doing in the oceans.

Many people mistakenly believe that aquaculture is the equivalent of farming ruminants. That fish farming is like letting cows, sheep, goats etc. graze on grass to give us protein through their meat. However, in many respects this is incorrect, especially for those fish that are fed other fish.

Many of the marine fish bred and reared in aquaculture farms are upper trophic-level predators. Tuna is a carnivore hunter, like the tiger, and in the case of Pacific Bluefin Tuna, is becoming almost as rare.[1] But the Mediterranean Sea is littered with ‘tuna farms’ where tuna are fattened on wild-caught fish before being harvested for sashimi and sushi. FAO reports that, “Feed conversion ratios (FCR) are generally high around 15-20:1 for large specimens and 10-15:1 for smaller fish. Bluefin tuna maintain an unusually high body temperature and their constant movement implies a high energy demand. As a result only a small fraction (5 percent) of the total energy input is used for body growth.[2]

Now, I must admit that my description of tiger farming suffers from some limitations as an analogy for marine finfish aquaculture. For a start, fish species like groupers, barramundi (Asian sea bass) and salmon are not endangered or even threatened. But aquaculture operations using these fish do rely on large quantities of wild-caught fish, which are either fed directly to the farmed fish or turned into pellets containing fishmeal and fish oil.

Of course, an important driver for an increase in aquaculture production is the inability of wild-caught fish to meet human demand for fish protein. According to Steve Hall, Director General of World Fish Centre, “4.5 billion people get at least 15 percent of their average per capita intake of animal protein from fish”.[3]

In 2012, around 91.4 million metric tons of fish were caught globally from the wild; of this, approximately 11.6 million metric tons were caught from inland waters and 79.7 million metric tons were caught in marine fishing areas.[4] The volume of capture fish production has remained roughly the same since at least 2006.

Also in 2012, about 66.6 million metric tons of fish were produced through aquaculture.[5] Of this total, approximately 10 million metric tons were marine fish and diadromous fish that are fed fishmeal and fish oil-based aquafeed.[6] A substantial portion of freshwater aquaculture production also relies on fishmeal, e.g. tilapia.

As with the forests and jungles that would quickly empty of animals were we to drag nets through them to catch feed for tiger farms, so we are emptying the oceans in part to feed fish in aquaculture farms that often produce less fish than they use as feed. In 2012, a total of 16.3 million metric tons of fish were caught to produce fishmeal and fish oil.[7] The International Fishmeal and Fish Oil Organisation estimate that in 2010, the aquaculture industry utilized 73% of total fishmeal production. In the case of fish oil, the estimates are that 71% is used as aquafeed and 26% for human consumption.[8] Admittedly, not all of this production comes from whole fish; in 2012, about 35% of world fishmeal production was obtained from fish residues (by-products and waste rather than whole fish) but this still leaves around 10.5 million metric tons made from whole fish.[9]

Salmon farming in particular has a high demand for wild forage fish. One of the main attractions of salmon at market is the beneficial effects on health of salmon flesh containing omega-3 fatty acids. However, fish do not actually produce omega-3 fatty acids; rather, they accumulate them from either consuming microalgae that produce these fatty acids, e.g. as do herring and sardines, or, as is the case with fatty predatory fish like salmon, by eating prey fish that have accumulated omega-3 fatty acids from microalgae. To satisfy the requirement for fish that are rich in omega-3 fatty acid, more than 50 percent of the world fish oil production is fed to farmed salmon.

The by-catch of fishmeal and other fisheries is difficult to know but has been estimated globally to total about 27 million metric tons.[10] In January 2015, The New York Times reported Douglas J. McCauley, an ecologist at the University of California, Santa Barbara, as saying that “We may be sitting on a precipice of a major extinction event”.[11] In January 2015, researchers at the University of Sheffield UK released a report finding that “up to a quarter of the planet’s well-known marine species, from the Mediterranean monk seal to the Pondicherry shark, are in danger of being wiped out. This overturns the conventional scientific wisdom that marine species are far safer than others, by establishing that the risk is equally high. In each case, between 20 and 25 per cent of species are threatened with extinction”.[12]  

The Marine Fisheries Service of the US National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) reports that, “Many commercial fish stocks reveal a pattern of declining populations. Recent trends indicate that about one-third of the resources on which fishers depend are overfished in the United States and worldwide... Without major changes in fishery management, FAO estimates that global landings will not be able to exceed current levels despite increased demand from growing populations, and could be reduced by as much as 25 percent”.[13]

The demand for marine predator fish is not going to disappear and be replaced by consumption only of herbivore fish. Therefore, if the pressure on wild caught fish is to be reduced and sufficient feed is to be available to meet the demand of future aquaculture, we must break the nexus between aquaculture output and the capture of wild fish as feed.

In recent decades, there has been extensive research on ingredients to replace fishmeal, but this research has tended to focus on sources of plant protein such as corn and soya. These crops are now used in some commercial aquaculture feeds. However, some species of fish, such as grouper (e.g. Epinephelus spp., Cromileptesaltivelis and Plectropomus spp.), and fish at certain life stages require high levels of protein and have low metabolic limits for carbohydrate.[14] In these instances, the incorporation of mainstream crops into fish feed has had less than optimal results.[15] In addition, many countries do not grow these mainstream crops and are therefore left in the undesirable position of having to import alternatives to fishmeal, which can be cost prohibitive.

I am currently Research Director of the ‘FishPLUS’ programme at Crops for the Future. In order to help address this problem, our researchers are working with partners around the world to identify fish feed ingredients from underutilised plant species such as Moringa (Moringa oleifera) and Bambara Groundnut (Vigna subterranea), and to explore how insects, such as Black Soldier Fly (Hermetia illucens) and Rhinoceros Beetle (Dynastinae), fed on plant species that can be grown locally might be incorporated into fish feed formulations. The research is at an early stage but holds considerable promise for the future of marine aquaculture as a sustainable source of protein. I am aware that similar work is being done at other institutions around the world, including University of Stirling UK, and universities and private companies in USA. For the sake of the oceans and the future well-being of people around the world, these efforts must succeed.

We can avoid the folly of eating tigers but we are already eating their marine equivalents. We critically need to find an alternative to dragging nets through the oceans to produce their feed.

Published in The Malaysian Insider, 19 July 2015
 



[1]Over the last four decades, the Atlantic Bluefin tuna has declined by at least 51% and is now listed as “Endangered”; while the Southern Bluefin tuna adult fish has experienced an 85% decline, resulting in its “Critically Endangered” status. The Pacific Bluefin tuna has also been listed as “Vulnerable” species.” WWF, See:  http://www.wwf.org.hk/en/whatwedo/footprint/seafood/sci/campaigns/bluefinsaver/threats/
[2] Ottolenghi, F. 2008. Capture-based aquaculture of Bluefin tuna. In A. Lovatelli and P.F. Holthus (eds). Capture-based aquaculture. Global overview. FAO Fisheries Technical Paper. No. 508. Rome, FAO. pp. 169182.
[3] See http://www.seafoodsource.com/news/aquaculture/28195-worldfish-discusses-climate-change-impact-on-aquaculture
[4] World Capture Production, see ftp://ftp.fao.org/FI/STAT/summary/a1a.pdf
[5] World fisheries production, by capture and aquaculture, by country (2012). See, ftp://ftp.fao.org/FI/STAT/summary/a-0a.pdf
[6] Seafish, The Global Picture – World Aquaculture, See http://www.seafish.org/media/publications/SeafishSummary_WorldAquaculture_Globalpicture_201208.pdf
[7]  FAO: The State of World Fisheries and Aquaculture 2014 (244 pages)  http://www.fao.org/3/a-i3720e.pdf
[8] Seafish, ‘The Global Picture – Fishmeal Production’ June 2014, see: http://www.seafish.org/media/publications/seafshsummary_fishmealglobalpicture_201406.pdf
[9] Loc. cit.
[10] NRC By-catch Database reported at FAO, http://www.fao.org/docrep/003/t4890e/t4890e03.htm
[11] Zimmer, C., ‘Ocean Life Faces Mass Extinction, Broad Study Says’, The New York Times, 15 January 2015. See, http://www.nytimes.com/2015/01/16/science/earth/study-raises-alarm-for-health-of-ocean-life.html
[12] As reported in  A quarter of the world’s marine species in danger of extinction’, The Independent, 30 January 2015, see: http://www.independent.co.uk/environment/a-quarter-of-the-worlds-marine-species-in-danger-of-extinction-10014624.html
[13] Hourigan, T.F., ‘Conserving Ocean Biodiversity: Trends and Challenges’, Trends and Future Challenges for U.S. National Ocean and Coastal Policy. See: http://oceanservice.noaa.gov/websites/retiredsites/natdia_pdf/7hourigan.pdf
[14] Tuan, L.A.; Williams, K.C. Optimum dietary protein and lipid specifications for juvenile malabar grouper (Epinephelus malabaricus). Aquaculture, v.267, p.129138, 2007.
[15] J. Wood, Project Funding Submission, Crops for the Future, 2014, unpublished.